- By Calypso Cavallo
- June 1, 2022
- Skincare
How does skincare work? Do our pores really “drink” our creams and serum? How do they help our skin to be more radiant? Do the ingredients go through our vascular system? Here is the science behind skincare!
Most people do skincare every morning and night. Washing our faces, and applying a cream or serum is a luxurious and relaxing experience for most of us. However, few people know what happens to their favorite skincare products once applied.
So, how does skincare work?
How does skincare work?
To understand what happens to skincare products once applied, we need to know how our skin works. Let’s quickly get the main info about our skin’s function.
The skin is the largest organ of the human body. The primary purpose of the skin is to protect the body from harmful foreign substances. The human skin counts three layers. The outer layer is known as the epidermis. It is a waterproof barrier made of several layers, including the stratum corneum. This epidermis layer is the highest, directly in contact with the outside world. Under a powerful microscope, it looks like roof tiles of dead skin glued together with fatty acids.
Under the epidermis comes the dermis. This layer is home to many important parts of our skin: hair follicles which produce body hair (or hair if located on the scalp), blood vessels, sweat glands, and other skin components such as collagen, elastin, and connective tissues.
The deepest layer of the skin is the hypodermis, made of fat and connective tissues.
Our skin is not a sponge!
When asked: how does skincare work? Most people believe the skin sucks up the product like a dry sponge. It is inaccurate, as most skincare products stay on the skin surface. Contrary to popular belief, most skincare products do not reach the dermis or the blood vessel.
The feeling most people experience after applying skincare leads us to believe the skincare got in our skin is an illusion. It is caused by air-drying, as most skincare ingredients start evaporating as soon as applied to the skin.
Dermatologically speaking, the word “absorption” would mean the skincare product made its way into the dermis and hypodermis rather than staying on the upper level of the skin.
The most penetrative a skincare product is, the more hydrating and fortifying it is, as the active ingredients can get deeper into the skin.
However, there is a prevalent issue passing the first layer of the skin: it is water repellent. Hopefully, sebum, fatty acids, and ceramides act as a barrier so we can bath without our body getting full of bathwater! Skincare also has trouble passing this first layer because they contain water, as it is the best way to dilute active ingredients to make them efficient without being too harsh to the skin.
To solve these issues, cosmetic makers add penetration enhancers to the formula. Those ingredients, such as alcohol or fatty acids, decrease the skin’s barrier resistance, so the products’ active ingredients can make their way to the deeper layers. However, those ingredients also open the way for unwanted substances to cross the skin barrier. It is like opening a window in the summer, the fresh hair will get into the room, but the flies and mosquitos may follow along.
Another factor affecting skincare products’ penetrative ability is their type. Serum tends to penetrate deeper into the skin compared to creams.
Ingredients have different penetrative capabilities depending on their molecular structures. Vitamine C and E, and hyaluronic acid get their way deeper into the skin compared to those with a larger molecular structure. Wax, silicones, and oils do not penetrate the skin but sit on the outer layer, giving a hydrating effect.
What skincare ingredients get into the bloodstream? What are the precautions to take?
If most skincare ingredients remain in the upper level of the skin, some may get into the blood system, especially the ones with an ultra-small molecular structure. The most common skincare ingredient which can make it into the blood is retinol. It is strongly advised for pregnant women to avoid retinol-containing skincare. Other chemicals, such as avobenzone and oxybenzone, are usually found in sunscreen and can get their way to the blood. Parabens or phthalates are even more dangerous because they act like hormones. This kind of chemical is known as endocrine disruptor chemicals (EDC).
To learn more about this risk, you can read our article about skincare and cancer.