Slugging involves applying Vaseline to the face at night to wake up with soft, plump skin in the morning. But should you try it or not?
Like snail slime-based skin care, the slugging method comes straight from Korea and has met with some success in the United States, where it is one of the current skin care trends.
Slugging involves using a thick layer of petroleum jelly on cleansed skin at night after applying a moisturizer. Use a pillowcase that you’re not afraid to get dirty, as you’re likely to get it dirty (make sure you change it regularly if you want to practice the technique regularly). This cheap technique would allow you to wake up in the morning with a soft, plumper skin and with a renewed glow. This result is due to this active ingredient’s occlusive and hydrophobic character. Vaseline creates a synthetic and occlusive film on the skin that blocks water loss, therefore dehydration. Vaseline thus acts like a rich night cream, but more film-forming and much less expensive! Creams are stabilized mixtures of water (mostly) and fat, which are lighter on the skin, including very rich creams. On the other hand, Vaseline is made up of fat only, making it much more oily and film-forming. It is still advisable to use a product bought in a pharmacy (and not in the DIY section of a supermarket) so that it is as purified as possible.
Why this success?
Thanks to many American and Korean stars and/or influencers, the trend has become popular in recent months, made famous by the site Reddit or Tiktok. But are they aware that they are covering their faces with petroleum-based jelly? Nothing is less sure…
In the U.S., some famous dermatologists, especially on YouTube, also promote slugging, praising the merits of petroleum jelly, paraffin, and silicones. They do this mainly because these cosmetic components are very cheap and inert on the skin, thus not causing powerful allergies when used to moisturize the skin or relieve chapping. However, to be on the safe side, we recommend that you test a small area of your face with a bit of Vaseline before seeing how your skin reacts. Mona Gohara, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine, explains that “as we age, we experience decreased barrier repair, hydration, lack of skin firmness and more visible wrinkles. These are all discomforts that she says could be improved with slugging, which “acts as a barrier to keep water inside the epidermis. For even more effectiveness, she explains that “exfoliation beforehand is essential. Focus on “chemical exfoliation with glycolic acid,” an active ingredient that can help make skin softer and smoother.
In the U.S., petroleum jelly is more common than in Europe, and its widespread use is far less controversial. Thus, many Americans are comfortable with petroleum-based actives and are not overly concerned about using them in facials. Look at the number of brands offering ultra-rich Vaseline-based lip balms, for example. Vaseline is the perfect product for those who don’t care about its origin.
A method for all skin types?
In Korea, slugging is recommended for people with dry skin who, as a result, sometimes lack radiance. However, we advise you not to use this method on dehydrated skin because a thirsty epidermis does not always react well to an occlusive layer and can become even more dehydrated. On the contrary, the method can work if the skin is well hydrated from the inside, quite plump by nature, or if potent hydrating serums have been used. However, we believe this practice should be a one-time thing, such as anticipating a significant event or if you are likely to be photographed. Why do we do this? Because a daily layer of Vaseline is expected to quickly dull the skin, dilate the pores and even cause acne to appear by blocking the pores with its occlusive action. Therefore, skins with imperfections or acne tendencies should be wary and only use slugging in case of drying treatment because, by being occlusive, it favors the development of bacteria.
Finally, despite the confidence that many influencers and brands claim that paraffin and petroleum jelly are not comedogenic, you must remain vigilant and observe your skin. In theory, if it is possible to agree on this non-comedogenic character, in practice, significant doubts remain. This method is not suitable for those with environmental concerns, as well as for fans of organic and natural skincare.
Vaseline, a petroleum jelly
Vaseline is a highly purified petroleum-based fat or jelly similar to paraffin. On the list of ingredients of a care product, you can identify it by its INCI name, “Petrolatum .”It helps keep water away and, as such, is often used in medicine to block moisture on certain wounds that need to stay dry. For example, it protects and keeps stitches healthy after surgery or treats certain injuries such as burns. It is also used as a neutral excipient in topical medical preparations. But Vaseline is also popular for facial care, especially on the lips and on eczema patches. In addition, it has many uses in many different worlds, for lubricating small articulated mechanisms such as fishing or diving equipment, locks, hinges…